Shaker Clock In Solid Red Oak

Begin by selecting 4/4 red oak and handsawing 3ft out of the board. Painted ends must be removed before milling as ends of boards usually contain dirt and debris. Please ensure that you are milling 3ft of material. This is a safe amount of wood for you to learn milling operations.

Begin by Jointing the face of the board that is cupped. The board shouldn't rock on the jointer table while jointing. If it does flip the board over. Place push paddles so handles face you. Left hand is underhand grip while right should be overhand. Remember to step hands over the cutterhead but always keep one hand on your material. Be comfortable with your distance from the jointer.

With jointed face on the table of the planer, begin planing the other rough face. Remember on each pass to flip the lumber over so you are planing both faces. For best results grain direction (smooth grain) should be facing the outfeed table on this machine. For the Shaker Clock the finished thickness of your stock should be 3/4" or 19mm.

Each revolution of the handle on the planer (clockwise) removes 1/16" or 1.5mm of wood. This is a safe amount of material to remove on hardwoods and is recommended on all milling at school. If you make a mistake and lower the table, shut off the machine and reset against the go/no gauge on the planer. See your Instructor if you are unsure.

Checking thickness with a wrench to check for thickness of material.

Edge jointing after surface planing. Featherboards are encouraged in grade 10 to help students keep wood against the fence. Remember to step hands over cutterhead while jointing. Rough Milling almost done at this point.

Students need to trim both ends of milled board. Jointed edge must be placed against fence with no gap between the fence and the stock and no gap between the table of the mitre saw and the face of the wood. Always engage the clamp on this machine for safe cross cutting. Also remember that the entire station is a hands free zone.

Always engage the clamp while setting up to do a cross cut.

Relation of Top of Clock to Cabinet sides with dowels properly located. Follow along on this tutorial as we show you how to drill dowel holes with your jig and properly place dowels in cabinet parts.

The holes on your jig body should appear closer to one edge. This edge should be marked Inside. If your holes are in the center then pick an edge to write Inside and the other Outside.

Begin by clearing marking the outside of the jig body.

Mark the Inside of the Jig body also. Remember the holes are closer to this edge.

Find your cabinetmakers marks. That mark should identify the front edges, the top and bottom and outside faces. Using blue masking tape place a piece on all 4 outside cabinet side back edges. Remember to put the tape on the outside faces!

Use two finish nails to seat the jig body on to the top of the cabinet sides.

Be sure that the dowel jig foot is tight against the back edge of cabinet side. You should see blue tape next to your foot if you have done everything right.

Place a dowel to the top of the jig body. Bring it down until it is flush with the jig body top. The depth of the dowel is where the drill bit needs to stop. Use masking tape to flag off the drill bit so you don't drill too deep.

Obtain enough dowels to complete one cabinet side. Compressing the dowels with a file (rolling the dowels) will allow you to easily place the dowels in the drilled holes.